UNL Extension Tractor Safety Courses Offered Across Nebraska

May 4, 2015 Leave a comment


By John Wilson

Extension Educator

Nebraska Extension Tractor Safety/Hazardous Occupations Courses will be offered at seven locations in Nebraska during May and June. Any 14- or 15-year-old teen who plans to work on a farm, other than his/her parents’ farm, should plan to attend.

Federal law prohibits youth under 16 years of age from working on a farm for anyone other than their parents or guardian. Certification through the course grants an exemption to the law allowing 14- and 15-year-olds to drive a tractor and to do field work with mechanized equipment.

The most common cause of death in agriculture accidents in Nebraska is overturn from tractors and all-terrain-vehicles (ATVs). Tractor and ATV overturn prevention are featured in the class work. Instilling an attitude of ‘safety first’ is a primary goal of the course where youth have the chance to learn respect for agricultural jobs and the tools involved.

Classes will consist of two days of instruction plus homework assignments. Classes are from 8:00  a.m. – 5:00 p.m. each day. The closest session will be held at the fairgrounds in Wayne on Monday and Tuesday, June 15-16. Other dates and locations include:

— May 27-28, Fairgrounds, Kearney

— June 1-2, Fairgrounds, Valentine

— June 5-6, Event Center, Lincoln

— June 8-9, Farm and Ranch Museum, Gering

— June 11-12, West Central Research and Extension Center, North Platte

— June 17-18, College Park, Grand Island

Pre-registration is strongly encouraged at least one week before a location’s start date to the Extension Office at the course site. Cost is $60, which includes educational materials, testing, supplies, lunches and breaks. For more information on the training in Wayne, contact Keith Jarvi at 402.584.2234 or kjarvi1@unl.edu.

The first day of class will include intensive classroom instruction with hands-on demonstrations, concluding with a written test that must be completed satisfactorily before students may continue driving tests the next day. Classroom instruction will cover the required elements of the National Safe Tractor and Machinery Operation Program. Homework will be assigned to turn in the next day.

The second day will include testing, driving and operating machinery. Students must demonstrate competence in hitching equipment and driving a tractor and trailer through a standardized course as well as hitching PTO and hydraulic systems.

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Open Winter Injury

January 23, 2015 Leave a comment


John Wilson

John Wilson

By John Wilson, Extension Educator

We are in a very similar situation to where we were about this time last winter. While most of us are enjoying the lack of snow and wondering how long it will last, many plants in our landscape are suffering because of the “nice” winter. A winter with little precipitation and no snow cover increases the risk of winter dessication injury to plants.

Many of you may remember this from last year when perennials and woody ornamentals failed to green up in the spring. Evergreen trees and shrubs are most susceptible, but lawns and perennials can also be injured. Tender and marginally hardy plants were hardest hit.

When there is little snow cover, questions about the need to water during winter rise. While winter watering can be done IF the ground is not frozen and air temperatures are above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, it is important to understand winter watering, even rainfall or melting snow, can also cause plant injury.

For example on lawns and herbaceous perennials, plant crowns absorb moisture and rehydrate. If a rapid drop to freezing temperatures occurs soon after, water taken up by the plant crown freezes. Ice crystals that form then damage or rupture plant cells, and possibly cause death.  This is known as crown hydration injury. It sometimes occurs naturally in late winter when snow is melting, or when an early spring rain is followed quickly by freezing temperatures.

If you would decide to irrigate when soils are not frozen and air temperatures are above 40 degrees, be sure to apply water about mid-day so it has time to percolate into soil before freezing occurs night. Avoid excess watering so it does not pool around plant stems.

If you decide to do winter watering, evergreen trees and shrubs should be a priority. Evergreens are most susceptible to winter drying and more costly to replace if severely injured or killed.

While all plants continue to lose moisture during winter, evergreens lose more moisture due to their foliage being green all year. It is not uncommon for evergreens to turn light brown after spring arrives.

The most common cause of spring browning is winter drying, not cold temperatures. The evergreens Arborvitae and Japanese Yew are most likely to sustain winter dessication injury. Any evergreen grown in a high wind area, near pavement, or on the south side of a home is also more susceptible.

Correct summer and fall watering is most important in preventing winter dessication on evergreens. Water could be applied during winter if dry conditions persist. Again, only water when the soil is not frozen, air temperatures are above 40 degrees F, and at mid-day so water soaks into soil and does not pool and freeze around plant crowns at night.

For valuable plants growing in exposed location, a physical barrier made of burlap, weed barrier fabric, or snow fencing can still be put into place to provide protection. Anti-transpirant sprays could also be applied according to the label. Mid to late winter is often when the majority injury due to dessication occurs.

If evergreens turn brown, owners wonder about plant survival. If only the foliage dies, the plant should leaf out again in spring if buds are viable. If woody tissue is killed, that portion of the plant will not recover. When injury occurs, wait until late May before pruning or removing winter injured evergreens to allow time for regrowth.

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Poinsettias are not Poisonous

December 19, 2014 Leave a comment


John Wilson

John Wilson

By John Wilson, Extension Educator

It seems like I talk about this every year, but I recently had a call from a concerned parent wondering if poinsettias were poisonous. It seems that their young child found one of these within reach and must have decided the leaves looked like a fresh change from lettuce. They were very relieved when I assured them that poinsettias are not poisonous and they are safe to have in homes with young children and pets.

However, poinsettias are not edible and it could be expected that, if eaten in quantity, they may cause stomach upset and possible vomiting. This might happen if an overactive puppy devoured an entire plant.

However, no one wants a stomach ache during the holidays so it’s best to keep any holiday plant out of reach of pets and small children. Holiday plants that are toxic and should not be used in homes with young children and pets, or placed high where they are not accessible, include azaleas, rhododendron, Jerusalem cherry, mistletoe, Christmas holly, and Japanese yew.

Now that you know that poinsettias are not poisonous, here are several other things you might not know about this holiday flower. Poinsettias are the most popular flowering potted plant in the United States, even though most are sold only during a short, six-week holiday season!

Native to Mexico, poinsettias are a perennial flowering shrub. They were introduced into the United States in 1825 by Joel Poinsett, the first U.S. ambassador to Mexico. Over 100 varieties of poinsettia are available in red, pink, white and gold, often with unusual leaf coloration including speckles or streaks of color. However, most people still prefer the traditional red blooming variety.

When choosing a poinsettia, look for a full, well-branched plant with good color development in the showy bracts and dark green leaves. Avoid plants with wilted foliage, or those with few leaves at the base, which can indicate health problems. A fresh plant will have little or no yellow pollen showing on the true flowers, the small cluster of round yellowish buds in the center of the colorful bracts.

Also avoid plants with small white gnat-like insects that fly out of the plant when it is touched, or are found on the undersides of the leaves. These insects, called whiteflies, are a common greenhouse pest. Once in your home, they can fly and infest other houseplants and are very difficult to control. However, don’t confuse droplets of white milky sap that may be found on stems or leaves with whiteflies. Poinsettias are in the euphoria, or spurge family and normally have white, milking sap.

In your home, place a poinsettia where it will receive lots of sunlight and cool night temperatures around 60-65 degrees F. Keep the plant away from very cold drafts and furnace vents that will dry the plant out quickly and possibly even scorch the leaves. The soil should remain evenly moist, but not soggy. About two weeks after bringing the plant home, fertilize it with a complete fertilizer.

Depending on several cultural factors, your poinsettia will do one of two things after the holidays… hold onto its leaves or drop its leaves. If the plant holds its leaves, treat it like any houseplant. Leave it in a sunny location and apply a complete, water soluble fertilizer once every two weeks.

If the plant loses its leaves, place it in a bright, cool location (50-55° F), such as on a basement window ledge, but avoid locations with temperatures above 60° F. Let the soil dry out, but never let it get so dry that the stems start to shrivel. Allow the plant to rest in this condition until spring. In late April or early May cut back the stems to 3-5 inches from the soil and place it in a bright, warm location, watering whenever the soil dries out. New growth will begin to emerge. Pinch the new shoots back when they reach 4-6 inches in length to encourage bushiness. The plant can be set out-of-doors when the night temperatures stay above 60 degrees.

In fall before the first frost bring the plant indoors to a sunny location, but check the plant over thoroughly to be sure you aren’t bringing in insects, too. Beginning about September 25, poinsettias need 15 hours of complete darkness every day (i.e. – from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m.). Cover the plant with a cardboard box or put it in a closet. Be sure to bring the plant back out into sunny conditions during the day. Continue this dark treatment until the bracts begin to show color. Your poinsettia will bring holiday cheer to your home for years to come!

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4-H Bits and Pieces

November 18, 2014 Leave a comment


My Year In 4-H

4-H members should have received a copy of the “My Year In 4-H” form in their newsletter last week. I encourageALL of our 4-H members to complete this activity sheet. It is a good opportunity to take credit for the activities you have done throughout the year as well as getting credit for the assistance and participation of your parents. It serves a dual purpose of hopefully making you aware of many, MANY opportunities in the 4-H program you may be unaware of and might like to pursue in the future. Families with more than one member can either make copies or use different symbols on the form to identify different 4-H members, or just stop by for an extra copy or two. Check it out, check it off and return it to the UNL Extension Office by Monday, December 8.  Then make plans to pick up your award at the 4-H Achievement Celebration in January. Invitations will go out to all 4-H families after the 4-H Council meets to make plans for the event.

 

Career Portfolio Assistance & Information

Don’t let your 4-H year end without getting recognized for all your efforts. The 4-H Career Portfolio is your opportunity to compile all your activities, 4-H and beyond into one great little summary. It’s all on the computer so you can keep adding activities and new years to your report as time goes on. Besides making it possible for you to win 4-H awards, you can also enter your 4-H Career Portfolio in the county fair as an extra exhibit. Contact the Extension Office for a 4-H Awards Entry sheet.

The biggest reason to fill it out is because you will NEVER remember all the great things you did, such as projects, activities, community service, etc. All of these things will become VERY important as you apply for college scholarships, apply for National Honor Society, and lots more. The 4-H Career Portfolio becomes a computerized diary of all your 4-H activities and much more. It includes school and community activities as well. You may find the 4-H Career Portfolio on-line at: http://4h.unl.edu/careerportfolio and scroll down the page to find the form you can fill in. If you have any questions please call the UNL Extension Office at 402-374-2929 we’d love to help!

The 4-H Career Portfolios will be due in the Extension Office on Monday, December 8.

 

4-H Council Meeting

The 4-H Council will meet Wednesday, December 10 to make plans for the 4-H Achievement Celebration and attend to any other business. The meeting will be held in the Burt County Courthouse beginning at 7:00 p.m. Come with fun ideas for this event! THANKS!

 

 

4-H Planning Meeting

The annual 4-H Planning Meeting will be held Monday, December 8 at 7:00 p.m. in

the First National Bank Meeting Room in Tekamah.  All 4-H members, leaders and parents are welcome to attend and participate. Please bring all sports and activities calendars so we can avoid as many conflicts as possible. Hope to see you there!

 

Martha & Don Romeo Scholarship

The Nebraska Association of Fair Managers will award a $500 scholarship to one qualifying 4-H male and 4-H female who are graduating seniors in the State of Nebraska who plan to continue with post high school education. The scholarship will be awarded at the annual NAFM convention in January. For the application, please call the UNL Extension Office in Burt County at 402-374-2929. Applications are due in the Extension Office December 1, 2014.

 

 

Mary Loftis,

Extension Assistant
UNL Extension – Burt County
111 North 13th Street, Suite 6
Tekamah, NE 68061
Phone: (402) 374-2929

Fax: (402) 374-2930

Internet: mloftis2@unl.edu

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Time to Check For Aphids

August 29, 2014 Leave a comment


By John Wilson, Extension Educator

It’s mid-August and time to check fields for soybean aphids if you haven’t done so already. Even if you checked your fields a week ago, check them again. This is the time of year that aphid populations can build up rapidly. It’s important to remember aphid populations vary greatly from one field to another. So don’t make an insecticide application just because your neighbor did.

I was in a couple soybean fields recently and checked them for aphids. We’ve been fortunate this year that, although there have been a few aphids around, they haven’t built up in our area. Occasionally I’d find a pocket in a field with lots of aphids, but on average, the whole field was below control thresholds. However, I’ve heard reports from other areas in northeast Nebraska that have significant soybean aphid numbers and some fields are being treated in these areas. I’d target my scouting to late planted or replanted fields. These would be the ones most likely to have an aphid problem.

The aphid is light green to pale yellow, less than 1/16th inch long, and has two black-tipped cornicles… which look like tailpipes… on the rear of the abdomen. It has piercing-sucking mouthparts and typically feeds on new tissue near the top of soybean plants on the undersides of leaves. Later in the season the aphids can be found on all parts of the plant.

The only way to know if you need to treat is to check your fields and determine how many aphids are attacking your soybeans. You need to check plants in at least five different locations in a field and determine what is the average number of aphids per plant. It’s not unusual to have a hot spot in one area and very few in another, so get counts from different areas in the field and then average them together.

The threshold for treating is if you have an average of 250 or more aphids per plant and the population is increasing on plants up to R5, or the early pod fill growth stage. You won’t have yield losses at this level, but it should give you 5 to 7 days to make an application before yield losses occur… usually around 650 aphids per plant. If it’s going to take a commercial applicator a few days to get there, continue to monitor your aphid counts. If they level off or start to drop, cancel the application. It’s not unusual for aphid populations to crash around the first of September, but sometimes earlier.

Also, as the plant matures past R5, or if you have pods filling at the top of the plant, you can have higher aphid populations, probably in the range of 400 to 500 aphids per plant, before you need to be concerned about treating. In late August, we usually start getting milder temperatures which is more favorable for aphid populations to increase. So now is the time to get out and check your fields.

A couple final thoughts when scouting for aphids…

 

  • When counting aphids, make sure you only count live aphids. As aphids grow, they shed their skins and these often are left hanging on the under sides of leaves. These are almost white in color and do not move around.
  • Look for the presence of aphid natural enemies such as lady beetles, minute pirate bugs, and other insect predators. Aphid “mummies,” or light brown, swollen aphids, indicate the presence of parasitoids. These predators parasitize aphids and may keep low or moderate populations in check.
  • Look for the presence of winged aphids. If the majority of aphids are winged or developing wings, the aphids may soon leave the field and an insecticide treatment may be unnecessary.

For more information on soybean aphid control, contact your local UNL Extension office.

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Watering Lawns

August 21, 2014 Leave a comment


By John Wilson

John Wilson

John Wilson

Hopefully by the time you are reading this, we will have received some significant precipitation. Because unless we can get some rain soon, more and more people are going to be forced to water their lawns if they haven’t done so already. (Fortunately, I’ve only had to water my lawn once this year.) Here are some thoughts on how to efficiently water our lawns throughout the growing season.

It has been UNL Extension’s recommendations for years that it is better to water our lawns deeply and infrequently for the best water use efficiency and plant health. That hasn’t changed… it is much more efficient, and better for the turf, to apply one inch of water in a single application once a week than a quarter inch of water every other day… or an eighth of an inch every day. The water will soak deeper in the soil which encourages deeper rooting AND the evaporation losses will be less so more of the water goes to the plant.

However, what constitutes deep and infrequent irrigation changes during the growing season. Deep and infrequent irrigation is summarized as irrigating only after the first signs of drought stress become visible, water thoroughly to wet the soil to the depth of rooting, and then do not water again until symptoms of drought stress reappear. What is “deep and infrequent” in May is far different than what it is in August, so your irrigation controllers for automatic watering systems need to be changed throughout the year. No more “set it and forget it”!

High soil temperatures decrease root growth while increasing root death, the end result is a shallower and likely less dense root system. August rooting depth may decrease by 50% or more compared to May rooting depth. Therefore, less water is needed to wet the soil to the depth of rooting. Additionally, water use increases with temperature as the plant uses it to cool itself.

The end effect of these two process is irrigation frequency increases during the heat of summer, but the amount of water applied during each irrigation cycle is less. Unfortunately, there is no hard and fast numbers recommended for amount and frequency of irrigation.

Turfgrass species, soil type, slope, exposure, compaction, mowing height and frequency, overall plant health, and daily wind, temperature, and precipitation will determine the amount of irrigation required on each individual lawn. It is further complicated by irrigation method and if an underground system is used, volume, pressure, nozzles, head spacing, and condition of the system will also complicate the irrigation.

A good way to tell how deep in the soil the water has soaked is to take a large screwdriver and poke it in the turf in several places. When the soil is moist, it will slide into the soil easily. But when the soil is dry, you can still poke the screwdriver in, but there will be much more resistance. If it slides in easily to a depth of four to six inches, you do not need to water until the turf starts to show signs of moisture stress.

The bottom line is that turfgrasses require water for optimum performance, but they much prefer slightly drier conditions over slightly wetter conditions and are extremely capable of withstanding slight to excess drought or even drought-induced dormancy. Therefore, always error on the dry side when it comes to irrigating your lawn. Not only will the turf perform better, you’ll also reduce your overall water use.

For more information on lawn care, go to the UNL turf website at http://turf.unl.edu/ or contact your local UNL Extension office.

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